The generic, large, loud, bustling spaces that make up the new L’Espalier at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel mean an entirely new concept has risen from the ashes of the old. I mourn the old, but change comes to all things. Chef’s gotta make a living, and how will he do it? Volume. And apparently appealing to a new, furrier species of clientele.

We ordered the Autumn Degustation Tasting Menu and the Vintner’s pairing. The butter-poached Maine lobster was sweet, succulent, and tender. The foie gras torchon was smooth, buttery and perfectly seasoned (though the concord grape foam that accompanied it was a tad too sweet, in our opinion). Other courses, from the poached beef tenderloin, to the escolar, to the Thai-spiced Colorado rack of lamb on native pumpkin were as lovely as ever.

And we could almost hear ourselves think over the din of the eight-top of energetic guys (clearly enjoying the wine list) the hostess seated us next to in “the library,” described the day we made our reservation as the most intimate space in the new L’Espalier. (The other rooms, we figured, were even more like Gillette Stadium on game day, so we stayed put.) Read the rest of this entry »

Recently I was perusing Tremont 647 chef Andy Husbands’s blog, The Fearless Chef, and read an interesting post on truffle oil—specifically, his decision to not use it. Which piqued my interest, as Bostonians seem to be particularly obsessed with anything truffled these days. (See: truffle tots, truffle fries, truffle butter, truffle-stuffed rabbit, truffle gnocchi.)

His reason? Much of the truffle oil on the market hasn’t actually been truffle infused, or made with any actual truffle. It’s often created in a lab, using compounds that mimic the voluptuous, savory, earthy aroma of the actual stuff. There was a lot of discussion of this following the Times’ 2007 article on the subject, but it’s since faded, and truffle oil is still everywhere. I’ve yet to launch an investigation into the various truffle oils used in Boston kitchens, but my guess is there’s still plenty of synthetic stuff out there. Read the rest of this entry »

Happy Christmas Eve, Chowder readers!

 I finished my shopping yesterday (whew!), but if you’re one day behind me, here are three locally-inspired ideas for all your favorite gourmands:

 1) Here’s a gift that gives back: a gift certificate to a Super Hunger Brunch (sold in denominations of $25, $35, or $50) or tickets to the 2009 Super Hunger Chef Challenge—all to benefit The Greater Boston Food Bank. Your giftee gets a great meal, you get the satisfaction of knowing that you’re supporting a truly vital (especially these days) cause.

Read the rest of this entry »

I love it when Christmas and Chanukah overlap. Having been raised in a very multi-culti household, I adore seeing tree and menorah both aglow in the living room. It reminds me of home.

But it also makes it very hard to decide what to eat this week. Latkes or ham? Brisket or goose? Doughnuts or pumpkin custard? I’m sure the folks at the Globe would love for me to make some prize-winning noodle kugel. (Frankly, I prefer potatoes in mine.) Or maybe a buche de Noel? Read the rest of this entry »

Yes, fish. I know it seems counterintuitive; for most Bostonians, icy temps like these mean rich beefy stews, roasted birds, slow-cooked racks and crowns and loins (and even some snouts and tails).

But considering the fact that much of our local seafood is at its best right now, we’d do well to be eating more surf than turf. Read the rest of this entry »

Your Chowder hounds have sniffed down the best culinary events in town. Check back every Friday for your weekly prix-fixe of foodie festivals, cooking classes, wine tastings, and more.

$40 Stimulus Menu
Tuesday-Sunday, dinner hours
Pigalle
Tuesday through Sunday evenings, chef Marc Orfaly will prepare your choice of three courses for just $40, including selections like French onion soup with braised short rib, tuna martini with seaweed salad, pâté de porc with mustard aïoli, cornichons and Armagnac soaked prunes, and many others.

Prix Pixe Dinner
Through Feb. 28, every evening
Olives
Todd English’s Olives has unveiled a new, three-course menu for $35 that is available every night through the end of February. The menu will change monthly, and for December, they’re offering first course choices of steamed P.E.I. mussels, tender salad of Boston Bibb & Mache, or ricotta ravioli. For the second course, choose from pan roasted chicken breast, winter flounder, or petite filet mignon. And for dessert, there’s the option of chocolate & butterscotch pudding or tarte tatin.

Read the rest of this entry »

There’s a spirited fight discussion currently raging on the local Chowhound board regarding Bina Osteria, the newish Italian eatery opened in Downtown Crossing by the folks behind Lala Rokh and Bin 26 Enoteca.

No one’s taking issue with the quality of the food itself: Indeed, when Chowder sampled the menu a few weeks ago, every morsel was exquisite, perhaps even some of the best cooking going on in the city right now, courtesy of (super-young) chef Brian Konefal, who did time at Atelier de Joel Robuchon and Eleven Madison Park, two of Manhattan’s finest restaurants.

The issue is the cost. Are the prices outrageous? Read the rest of this entry »

In all fairness, it’s understandable why Theater District newcomer Max and Dylans would’ve been near-empty on a frigid Sunday evening while nearby Fajitas & ‘Ritas (relatively) buzzed with customers.

The sprawling venue has all the ingredients of a thriving downtown nightspot (two bars, plus a sexy-ish ambiance of exposed brick walls, soaring ceilings, low lighting, and a peppy pop soundtrack), so at first glance potential diners might think the restaurant/bar better suited for a Friday or Saturday night–especially judging from the “No sneakers after 8 p.m.” sign tacked to the front door.

They’d only be about half right. Read the rest of this entry »

Tis the season… for drowning our financial sorrows and holiday woes in expensive, complicated booze. That’s what it seems like, anyway.

While we at Chowder can imbibe with the best of ‘em, we’re starting to wonder how much of this cocktail-obsessed madness we can take. First the Art of the Cocktail party at Drink, then the Repeal of Prohibition anniversary party at ESK, then more Drink.

And now this: Tuesday’s cocktail-making seminar for local bartenders, hosted by Svedka Vodka at The Beehive. Read the rest of this entry »

Your Chowder hounds have sniffed down the best culinary events in town. Check back every Friday for your weekly prix-fixe of foodie festivals, cooking classes, wine tastings, and more.

Holiday Baking Class at Rialto
Dec. 13, 11 a.m.
Rialto
The most difficult part of preparing any dessert is the crust. Luckily, we prefer the filling anyway. Rialto pastry chef Susan Abbott demonstrates the use of four versatile doughs that make perfect pies and tarts. The cooking demonstration will be followed by a light lunch, dessert, and sparkling wine.

Rum Cake Finalists’ Competition
Dec. 13, 1-3 p.m.
Prudential Center Food Court
Booze and cake: Everything’s better when they’re together. Bacardi and Where to Eat are hosting the Rum Cake Competition at the Prudential Center. Taste the top three finalists’ Bacardi Gold rum cake recipes and watch live celebrity judging.

Read the rest of this entry »